In the wake of Gyula Brilli in Esztergom

Gyula Brilli (1866–1931), born in Moravia, came to Esztergom as a young married man in the 1890s. He worked as a transport contractor, but he constantly spent his free time in the forests and mountains. At first, he travelled alone, but soon he gained tourist companions. He founded the Esztergom Tourist Association with several other persons, and a few years later, in 1911, the Esztergom Department of the Hungarian Tourist Association was established. With its eighty enthusiastic members, the department took over the maintenance and renovation of the tourist routes in the region, and also designated new routes. A ski and sledge run was created on Strázsa Hill, and a shelter was built on Vaskapu Hill, located on the outskirts of the town.

The name of Gyula Brilli, a former military officer of German origin, may not sound familiar to everyone. He is one of those who, almost unnoticed, wrote themselves into the memory of a town.

says Miklós Kemény, the president of the Esztergom department, in the issue of 15 March, 1931 of the magazine Esztergom és Vidéke, in which they report the news of Brilli’s death.

In the heart of Pilis, on the approximately 373-metre-high Vaskapu Hill, stands the Vaskapu Refuge, also known as the Brilli Gyula Refuge. The construction of the building was an old dream, which finally came true thanks to Brilli's determined fundraising. The initiative bore fruit surprisingly quickly, within a few months: the refuge could be built. Although the period after the First World War was not conducive to nature hiking, the refuge slowly found its audience and it became increasingly popular among hikers. After the Second World War, however, the condition of the building gradually began to deteriorate. In the years after the change of regime, it operated as a place of amusement for a while, and then it was closed for a long time.

The turning point was brought about by the intervention of Pilisi Parkerdő Zrt.: the building was renovated and reopened in 2012 according to its original function. Today, the refuge is not only a resting place for hikers, but also operates as a restaurant and it can accommodate about 40 people. Its terrace offers a stunning view of the town of Esztergom and the Danube Bend, and it is also easily accessible by car, so it is not absolutely necessary to arrive with hiking boots. Still, we warmly recommend the nature walk: the life-size statue of the Virgin Mary is just 50 metres from the tourist house and the 404-metre-high Vaskapu lookout tower is also reachable in a few minutes' walk. If you are open for a longer hike, it is worth starting from the Esztergom Basilica and following the tourist signs for the Mária Path to the refuge. The trail is about 3 kilometres long and it can be challenging due to the elevation – but the view and the experience are worth every step.

If you are on the banks of the Danube, why not see what Esztergom looks like from the water? The town shows a completely different face from the swaying of the waves: the hill of the basilica may seem even higher, and passing under the Mária Valéria bridge connecting Hungary and Slovakia may make you feel as if you are in a romantic novel. From the deck of the MAHART cruise ships, a stunning view opens up before us: the winding river, the silhouette of the town and the verdant mountains together provide a sight that would be a sin to miss if you visit the capital of the Danube Bend.