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Discover the magical world of Gerecse!

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Szabó Sára

Gerecse, a lesser-known mountain of the Transdanubian Central Mountains, is located less than an hour and a half's drive from Budapest, in the embrace of the Danube and the Tatai and Zsámbék basins. The Gerecse Landscape Protection Area, which covers nearly nine thousand hectares, is a protected natural area of national importance. The karst region, built of limestone and riddled with caves, is dotted with forests and rocky grasslands, and in addition to its geological diversity, it also hides numerous cultural values.
Gerecse, a lesser-known mountain of the Transdanubian Central Mountains, is located less than an hour and a half's drive from Budapest, in the embrace of the Danube and the Tatai and Zsámbék basins. The Gerecse Landscape Protection Area, which covers nearly nine thousand hectares, is a protected natural area of national importance. The karst region, built of limestone and riddled with caves, is dotted with forests and rocky grasslands, and in addition to its geological diversity, it also hides numerous cultural values.

Cave world and unmissable natural treasures

In a compilation about Gerecse, what else could we start the presentation with than the geological diversity of the region? The mountain range is hundreds of millions of years old: it is made up of Triassic and Jurassic rocks, in which fossils visible to the naked eye are common. During geological periods, the sedimentary basin has had numerous outcrops, so due to active tectonic and erosion processes, it is no coincidence that the region is best known for its underground passages: currently, we know of about 455 caves. One of the most famous caves in the Gerecse Landscape Protection Area – and also in our country – is the 45-metre-long, 18-metre-high Szelim-lyuk, the interesting thing about which is that you can be both underground and above the ground at the same time, and enjoy the wonderful panorama. From the gigantic mouth of the cave, you can see the Turul statue of Tatabánya, and you do not have to hike far to see the view: you can go up the long red staircase from Tatabánya, or you can also approach your destination by car. During archaeological excavations, mainly tools and human skeletal remains from the Middle Ages were found in the Szelim Cave, which is why the attraction has been under strict protection since 1982.

During our hikes and cave tours in the mountains, it is worth observing the terrestrial landscape: among the rarities of the flora, you can observe the highly protected Janka lizard orchid, or the protected lotus borbasii, the pretty feather grass, the yellow houseleek and the martagon-lily. The fauna is also worth mentioning. The birdlife and the mammal fauna are worth highlighting. In addition to the otter and the wildcat, several protected and highly protected bat species also live in the region. The highly protected rock bunting, black stork, golden eagle, imperial eagle or eagle owl may also come into view if you walk observantly in nature.

Another excellent place for bird-song adventures is the Agostyán Arboretum, located a few kilometres from Tata, in the picturesque Bocsájtó Valley. Thanks to the special microclimate of the 30.5-hectare area, it offers a stunning view at all times of the year. The foundations of the garden were laid by the Esterházy family: cedars, maples, sequoias, tulip-trees and ironwoods guide us to a real fairy-tale world. It is interesting that in the 1950s, thanks to the experimental plantings of the Hungarian Academy of Sciences, nearly 300 species of trees and shrubs became established here, but the birdlife of the arboretum is also unparalleled: today more than 110 bird species can be observed in the area, so it is not by chance that the place is called the “Bird-song Agostyán Arboretum”.

On the outskirts of Agostyán, you can also find one of the first eco- or living villages in Hungary, the Ágostonliget Nature Conservation and Human Ecology Education Centre. In the area, you can visit the memorial forest, learn about the basics of sustainable living in the historical ecological centre, and it is worth admiring the nearby Árpád-era parish church and medieval village.

The Mecca of hiking

If you choose Gerecse as your destination, do not leave your hiking boots at home! The National Blue Trail crosses the mountains, but numerous red, green and yellow signs also lead to springs, viewpoints or even ruins.

The most well-known performance tour is the Gerecse 50, which attracts thousands of participants every spring, but there are also routes suitable for shorter family trips on Gerecse; for example, the 105-metre-long Tardos canopy walk running on the border of Tardos and Süttő.

You can even go on a longer hike to visit the circular walkway, but if you go with little ones, you can reach the walkway running through the trees in about 15-20 minutes from the Alsóvadács Hunting Lodge. It is worth making a detour to Lábatlan, the Dunamente Eco-Centre, or Péliföldszentkereszt, where the exhibition space of our country’s seventh nature park is located. At the Gerecse Nature Park Visitor Centre, you can see the country’s first built English garden, but you can also take a walk along the bog woodland nature trail. For longer hikes, the Dunaalmási Kőpite (Stone Pie) Hiking Tours Nature Trail in the western part of Gerecse is excellent. The hiking trails lead along the former Roman road, through old quarries and forests – from the top of the pie-like Kőpite, reminiscent of a pie, there is a wonderful view of the Által-ér valley stretching out below our feet. In clear weather, you can even see as far as Pannonhalma! The four interconnected nature trails are of varying difficulty, and you can navigate them independently by downloading the free Duna-Ipoly mobile app.

There are several lookout points on the mountain: among others, here you find the Ranzinger Vince Lookout, which rises not far from the Szelim Cave, on the Csúcs Hill. You have to climb 156 steps to get to the unparalleled panorama, but it is really worth it: from the height you can see Tatabánya and its surroundings.

 

IMPORTANT: When visiting the mountains, it is worth considering and informing yourself in advance about the borders of the highly protected Nagy-Pisznice in Lábatlan, Száz-völgy in Tardos, Asszony-hegy in Neszmély, Nagy-Somlyó in Dunaszentmiklós and Lábas-hegy in Baj. Visiting them is possible with a permit or with a national park guide. The well-marked tourist trails are free to explore, so everyone can find the right challenge for them, from a shorter walk to a longer performance tour.

The "Devil Rider's Castle" and gastronomic experiences in the town of waters

Gerecse is not only rich in natural but also cultural and historical values. The remains of a prehistoric settlement dating back hundreds of thousands of years have been discovered near Vértesszőlő, and among the relics of the Middle Ages, church ruins, earth forts and castles can be found in the area. The Sándor-Metternich Castle in Bajna, also known as the “Castle of the Devil Rider”, or the Tata Castle and the magnificent Esterházy Castle located next to it, both offer a glimpse into the past. One of the most prominent events in the area is also worth marking in your calendar: the Tata Wild Goose Gathering, the largest wild goose gathering in Central Europe, where you can observe the spectacular dawn and evening migration of tens of thousands of birds on the shores of the Old Lake in Tata.

And if you are in the town of waters, that is, Tata, you should definitely visit the MICHELIN Bib Gourmand-rated Platán Bistro, where you can entrust yourself to the care of chef Donát Mogyorósi. Whatever you choose from the menu, at the end of the meal, do not miss the signature dessert of pastry chef Tamás László! It is worth taking a tour around the lake, and during your visit, before the tour, you can refuel with the excellent, sourdough pastries of Platán Pék. After the walk, returning to the starting point, you can relax in the shade of the 250-year-old plane tree. Finally, you can stay in this beautiful place; you can also book a room in the Platan Udvarház, also certified as a MICHELIN Hotel and awarded with a MICHELIN Key, or in Platan Utca.

Hello Hungary tip: the Gerecse, also one of the most atmospheric promenades in Hungary, is the Fényes nature trail built on piles in Tata, which you can walk alongside splashing karst springs, over suspension bridges and even climb up to a lookout tower. During the 18-station, 1350-metre walk, you can get to know the mysterious world of the bog woodland!