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Gastronomy

“Then game and fish and ev'ry dish..” – Tastes from the Fish and Game Dishes of Békés County

  • Káldi Emese
Körös Rivers, numerous floodplain forests, almost untouched nature: there is no shortage of fish and game in Békés County, and the same is true of fish and game dishes. A small gastronomical panorama – from Fisherman’s soup to wild boar rib served with quail eggs tarhonya (egg-based noodle), and further.
Körös Rivers, numerous floodplain forests, almost untouched nature: there is no shortage of fish and game in Békés County, and the same is true of fish and game dishes. A small gastronomical panorama – from Fisherman’s soup to wild boar rib served with quail eggs tarhonya (egg-based noodle), and further.

Talking about Békés County we must recall the Körös Rivers: their presence determines the image of surrounding settlements such as Gyula and Békéscsaba. In the Körös Rivers there are plenty of fish, and a great deal of game animals live in the area. It has always been thus, so it is not a coincidence that aristocrats were also happy to hunt in the area. Doboz was the site of one of the hunting lodges of the Wenckheim family, which today operates as an elementary school, so it’s not possible to see any more how aristocrats enjoyed themselves, however the great exhibition of Almásy Mansionin Gyula deals with this subject in detail. For example, the exhibition shows that hunts organised in the areas belonging to the estate besides offering amusement meant an important source of income for aristocratic families, and in addition ensured a large part of the meat required by the generally self-sustaining manors. The inhabitants of castles also consumed fish in abundance – old Hungarian cookbooks testify to this. In the contents of one of the most famous cookbooks called the Hungarian National Cookbook, published at the beginning of the 1800s, István Czifray lists the various fish dishes over almost two pages. Concerning today’s waters in Békés, the control and the replenishment of fish stock is ensured by the Körösvidéki Association of Angling Clubs, those who may be interested in fishing in this region should contact this association.

However, you can choose from many opportunities even if you don’t feel like holding a fishing rod, and you only want to taste fish delicacies of the region or from further places. Just as with tasty game dishes, you can find these here – provided that you know where to look!

In the markets of Gyula and Békéscsaba there are classic, family atmosphere fish shops operated with heart and soul. Both of the retro catering units are located in the gastro corner in both venues, where besides raw fish, it’s possible to taste a wide range of delicious freshly-fried fish dishes. The freshwater fish all come from Hungarian fish farms. We strongly recommend fried carp, but Fisherman’s soup is also a lasting experience. If you prefer to go to a restaurant let’s go to ‘Kisvendéglő a Hargitához’(Hargita Restaurant) in Gyula! The main profile of this restaurant is not fish or game dishes, but still, everything they have on their menu is delicious. For example grilled trout with vegetables and fried pepper mayonnaise. Sounds good, right? And what about grilled pike-perch fillet with grilled quince and porcini rice? If you are in the mood for game dishes, ask for a confit wild boar rib with quail-egg-tarhonya and wild mushroom ragout. The small family restaurant has been a favourite haunt of the people of Gyula for a long time; the service is friendly and the atmosphere is intimate.

Veszely csárda’ (Veszely Tavern) is also located in Gyula, at the edge of the town. A catering unit was operating here even back in 1837, and after a leaving out a couple of years, in 2017 it opened again as a tavern. Their Fisherman’s soup is excellent, and the chantarelle catfish paprikash with cottage cheese noodles is really special. They have one game dish, red wine and blueberry venison stew with strapačky – it’s worth a try in any case!

Now let’s move on to Békéscsaba, to a fish restaurant operated with great enthusiasm! In the ‘Halbolt – Szamos Vendéglő’(Fish Shop – Szamos Restaurant) not only is the service extraordinary, but there are many especially tasty fish dishes as well. Several types of Fisherman’s soup (our favourite is carp fish soup), freshly fried fish, catfish paprikash – although not only fish are listed on the menu, it’s worth going to the Szamos for these.

 

Last but not least, a delicacy to take away! In Gyula, the meat factory’s shop is a special corner: it’s like going back to the 1970s, but this is very pleasant time travel. In the shop the whole range of Gyulahús is available; there is no other such place in Hungary where the fresh goods would arrive in such a short time to the counter. The long-standing company, founded in 1868 recently added venison to it’s range of products, which can also be bought in the shop. Venison sausage, venison salami – strong or sweet – and sliced venison ham: whatever you choose, it will be a great experience to think back to your time in Békés, when you taste it at home.