Are you hungry? Follow your nose in Zebegény

There is something joyful about biting into the perfect piece of meat. You cannot even explain the feeling, just smile with your lips glistening with sap - surely if a psychologist had a look on the deeper layers of our souls, he would find a strange time portal, on the other side of which happy, gnarled cavemen would be gazing in rapture at the prey roasting over the fire they had just discovered. The grill and the barbecue, the flame and the embers are a modern-day version of this indescribable but living memory, therefore, it is no coincidence that millions of people are excited by meat made perfect with the aroma of smoke.

Although barbecue, or BBQ, has become a hit in Hungary in recent years, it came to Europe from the USA, but it has fused the culinary traditions of many peoples and continents, from the customs of settlers to the tricks of African, Caribbean and indigenous tribes. When hiking in the Danube Bend, it is worth leaving a little room in the stomach, although if tourists wander the hiking trails around Zebegény, they are guaranteed to arrive in the village hungry. You can see the Church of Our Lady of the Snows facing the river from far away, which is a very exciting sight on its own, but at the foot of the building designed by Károly Koós is one of the Meccas of BBQ fans in Hungary, the Füstölgő Sarok (lit. Smoking Corner).

A few years ago, when a few dedicated pit masters got involved in the tediously sizzling fat of the Hungarian “lacipecsenye”, many people did not understand the need to prepare the meat overnight. The name, which comes from the word “barabicu” of the Aravak Indians, refers to a very exciting process: although smoke rises from many a small garden or patio in good weather across Hungary, BBQ has some huge differences compared to the more common barbecues. The most important factor is the heat, as the meat is handled much more carefully than the 180-300 degrees we are used to in Hungary.  Generally, 110-125 degrees is considered optimal: the heat does not reach the raw material directly, but is transferred by flow. The result is a dark crust called bark on the outside, and soft and amazingly juicy slices of meat on the inside. 

Füstölgő Sarok is also ideal for those who are just getting to know another side of meat: the perfect BBQ material is never dry and has a huge fat content. Seasoning is also extremely important - in the South, the cradle of American style, every restaurant and chef insists on their own secret blend of jolly joker marinade. Practically no two flavours are the same, although a few basic spices are almost ubiquitous: chilli, pepper, herbs, dried garlic are almost obligatory. Although there are regions where wet marinades are used, it is common for 4-8 kilo meat or cut-up piglets to be simply salted and rubbed with dry curing salt before being placed in large pit boxes with lockable tops. Because of the time-consuming process, Dániel Faludi, the manager of Füstölgő sarok, does not even open the restaurant during the week. Since the number of guests is more predictable on public holidays, he schedules the preparations so that the weekend days are filled with the brilliant smell of smoke and roasting food.

The restaurant in Zebegény is open from spring to autumn: the season starts in April with the Füst fesztivál (lit. Smoke Festival). Fans of BBQ already know that it is worth following their facebook page, as you can find out about special offers and extra opening days there: pork, beef or even poultry can be prepared in this cosy corner of the Danube Bend. Whether you arrive by bike, train, car or the popular boat cruise, you will find the charming restaurant in the heart of the village in minutes. When Dani is doing BBQ, you do not even need a map, just follow your nose.