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A 19th-century steam bath turned into a wonderful forest shelter in Annafürdő

  • Szabó Sára
Finding hidden treasures is often best experienced when you least expect it. Delicious meals are often best when you have no expectations. And experiences often stick best when we don’t expect them to arrive. Lengyel-Annafürdő is everything, in the middle of nowhere: a wonderful 19th-century forest shelter in the southern part of the Tolna hills, with a mystical road leading in: you don’t really want to go back.
Finding hidden treasures is often best experienced when you least expect it. Delicious meals are often best when you have no expectations. And experiences often stick best when we don’t expect them to arrive. Lengyel-Annafürdő is everything, in the middle of nowhere: a wonderful 19th-century forest shelter in the southern part of the Tolna hills, with a mystical road leading in: you don’t really want to go back.

The magical legacy of the Apponyi Counts

Annafürdő is a lesser-known destination today, but this was not always the case: in the 19th century, it was a popular holiday destination for the Apponyi family. Thanks to the spa and the splendid events, it has often made the headlines! This is mainly thanks to Count József Apponyi, who tried to treat his wife’s rheumatic disease in the neighbourhood of their castle in Lengyel. He established a steam bath along the stream, now known as Anna Spring, in 1846, which he made available to the population of Lengyel after his death. The establishment was inherited by Count Rudolf Apponyi, whose wife, Anna, was also a great fan of the bath.

Thanks to the Countess, the reputation of the forest spring water spread far and wide, and the bath continued to be built and expanded over the years. Guests flocked to enjoy the spa treatments and the wonders of the balls, mayfairs and splendid events, to have fun and take a dip in the hot tub.

After Anna’s death, their son Alexander founded a rehabilitation hospital here during World War II, which was later inherited by the State Forestry Holding. The site was declared a protected area in 1975 and a few years later, a new building was erected on the site of the former bath. Today, the Gyulaj Forestry and Hunting Co. Ltd. runs a Tourism and Nature Study Centre here, where young and old can learn more about the natural treasures of the region. The protagonist of the story is the Anna Spring, resting in the embrace of old beech, chestnut and plane trees, flowing calmly from the mouth of a frog.

Eco-house, forest, wild boars and venison stew

As you enter the forest from Lengyel, you can already sense that you are in for a special experience. We wind our way under towering trees until we slowly emerge into a small forest shelter. On the left is a restaurant, on the right special wooden outdoor toys and the Annafürdő Guesthouse, which has been awarded the “Tourist House of the Year 2020” title. These are just a few of the many attractions in the 110-hectare Annafürdő Park Forest: there’s also a canopy trail, a wildlife park, a forest school, interactive educational games, an outdoor oven, a forest buffet, an eco-house and a fishing lake. Every corner of the facility reflects an environmentally friendly approach, with an insect hotel where the forest’s arthropods can nest at their leisure, but in Annafürdő, you can also get royal treat also where even the king walks. The compost toilets offer a sustainable and exemplary solution; perhaps some will draw inspiration from the creative idea. At the Szentkút Hut-Ecohouse, which has the character of a skanzen, you can also learn about eco-farming, try adobe bricklaying, willow-wood building and experience baking bread in a beehive oven or cooking on a stove colt (advance booking is required for the programs).

While the park forest offers maximum comfort, it does not take you away from nature for a minute. It is worth starting your exploration on the Lengyel-Annafürdő Canopy Trail, which is 30 metres long and about 9 metres high, and introduces you to the flora and fauna of the area. By crossing the gorge, the walkway follows the topography, while interactive tools allow visitors to learn about the forest’s wildlife. If you are lucky, you will be able to spot snoozing deer, passing wild boar, roe deer and fallow deer in the wildlife park. Following the boundary of the wildlife park, after a few minutes’ hike, you can enjoy unrivalled panoramic views (and even more game underfoot) at the Sasfészek-kilátó (Eagle’s Nest Lookout).

A few tasty bites at the Bükkfaló Forest Small Restaurant

Whether you come alone, in pairs, with friends or with family, after exploring, it is worth taking a rest at the Bükkfaló Forest Small Restaurant. Ancient beams, attic bricks, cosy tables decorate the unit, every corner of it is a guest attracting area. In the colder months, you can enjoy a Swiss meat fondue in front of the fireplace, and on summer days, you can usually enjoy a deer goulash with cottage cheese strudel. Homemade brioche and venison burgers are regular items on the menu, but whatever the menu of the day, it’s hard to get out of the shade of the giant trees. While we sit around wondering if we should try the whole range of desserts, the children can play with the many exciting forest toys. When you’ve had your fill, it is worth ending the day at the fishing lake hidden in the valley. The hillside beckons the adventurer to rest in its side and drift off to sleep to a symphony of croaking frogs.