5 discovery walks in Pécs, if you want to immerse yourself in the culture of the old days

A true local patriot, András Kövér is not only the face of the Zsolnay Festival of Lights, but also the TikTok face of Pécs in 2024. His guided tours dance on the borderline between stand-up comedy and storytelling, as we experience the turbulent events of history, scandals, assassinations, political games, strike waves, and learn about the ideas of city planning left in a drawer, or the practice of epidemic management in the 18th century. One of András’s regular guided tours is 1713, the Year of the Plague, an eerily entertaining programme for all ages. The walk will show how Pécs, which survived many disasters at the time, coped with one of the most devastating infections in its history. You can immerse yourself in the everyday life of the citizens of the early 18th century, who lived in the shadow of the deadly disease, learn about the cures of the time, how much life cost, what were the most common names and occupations 300 years ago.

Length of the tour: 2 km, 90 min
Age group: 6

The guided tour of the Episcopal Palace is one of the most popular permanent programmes of the Pécs Episcopate, and for good reason! The biographical references, interesting stories and magnificent interiors will fascinate even the less art history-minded visitor. The tour descends from heights to depths: after a stunning panorama from the balcony overlooking the Cathedral, it is worth descending into the secret underground tunnel. After the rooms of the palace’s east wing, the walk takes you to the equally eye-catching palace gardens, where fountains, statues and blooming Mediterranean plants refresh the visitor, and then on to the underground secret passageway of the Texas bar, where you can learn about the tragedies of the communist era.

Interestingly, the 18th-century corridor known as the Texas bar, an underground passage connecting the gardens of the episcopal palace and the winery, has been open to the public for only a few years. During the party-state era, it was the only place that was not bugged – at least according to József Cserház, the bishop who led the diocese from the early 1960’s until the change of regime. So, if he wanted to have a private conversation, he invited his confidants to the “Texas bar”, referring to the underground passage. The tunnel thus became not only a refuge from the watchful ears of the state administration, but also a symbol of communist persecution of the church over the years.

Length of the tour: 35-45 min
Age group: 6

For hot summer days, the Cooling Walk in the Zsolnay Quarter is (also) a great choice, where you can explore this wonderful “mini city”, learn about the most exciting stories of the world-famous Zsolnay family, and even sip on a refreshing lemonade at the end of the walk! We can enjoy a refreshing drink while sitting in the Escargo Coffee and Cocoa Bar, where we can choose our next cultural programme from the repertoire of the Bóbita Puppet Theatre. 

Length of the tour: 50 min
Age group: 6

András Kövér’s other permanent city walk covers a chronological period of 500 years, from the early Árpád period to the eve of the Turkish occupation. He shows the construction of the most complete surviving medieval complex in Hungary, the Episcopal Castle, which has been hardened and made ever more defensible by the trials of history, sieges, pillage and the development of military technology. All this wrapped up in a humorous, relaxed and really consumable package. Due to the theme of the programme, the narratives often contain violent moments, and the mischievous poetry of Janus Pannonius is also featured, so the tour is primarily recommended for adults or secondary school students over 16.

Length of the tour: 1.5 km, 90 min
Age group: 16

If you are in the Baranya county seat, a visit to the World Heritage sites in the heart of the city centre is almost a must. Let’s travel to an ancient world, to the Roman predecessor of Pécs, Sopianae, where we can explore the 4th-century Early Christian tombs and burial chambers, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2000! Beneath the visually striking glass ceiling lie the Early Christian tombs, which have rested beneath the surface for more than 1600 years. An unparalleled underground world awaits visitors, who can wander among tombs and tomb structures of varying layouts. Some of them are painted and their interiors are decorated with biblical scenes and early Christian symbols, which adds to the uniqueness of the monument and its universal cultural value.

Length of the tour:
Age group: 6

Hello Hungary’s tip: architecture lovers can stay in one of the most beautiful houses of Pécs, the “lábasház” (lit. “foot house”), i.e. the Karvaly rest house. The bon vivant building, converted from a former press house, offers a majestic panorama of the city, but the interiors are also impressive: different levels, loft-like interiors and unusual spatial compositions are a real treat for the discerning.