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Journey into the Wilderness of South Balaton: Three Adventurous Routes in Nagyberek

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Szabó Sára

Nagyberek is one of the most mysterious and less known natural area of the South Balaton region. From the books of Hungarian writer István Fekete bookworms might know the romantic area which serves as the magical set for the adventures of Tutajos. Even if we can’t find old Matula’s hut during our wanderings, with a little luck we may get a glimpse of the residents of the wetland: black stork, bittern, white waterlily or water violet. Let us present three trails, that can work out for everyone.
Nagyberek is one of the most mysterious and less known natural area of the South Balaton region. From the books of Hungarian writer István Fekete bookworms might know the romantic area which serves as the magical set for the adventures of Tutajos. Even if we can’t find old Matula’s hut during our wanderings, with a little luck we may get a glimpse of the residents of the wetland: black stork, bittern, white waterlily or water violet. Let us present three trails, that can work out for everyone.

We are glad that you have read this far, dear reader, because this means that you are excited about Nagyberek! You’re heading for one of your most memorable tours, however there are some important things we must tell you before you pull on your hiking boots. First of all, be very careful: in the Nagyberek highly protected birds nest, and the rare plant species of moorlands are also present. No matter how inviting the wilderness is, stay on the path! You know, like in a museum: look with your eyes, not with your hands. Secondly: wherever you go throughout your way, avoid the area of the Fehérvízi Láp (White Water Swamp), since this is a protected area. The Tourism Association of Balatonfenyves regularly organises guided canoeing and kayaking, Nordic walking and cycling tours, where the adventures are accompanied by interesting stories. If you still want to go on your own, here are some great routes:

Short trip in Szentpáli-berek, accessible with children

Type of trip: Hiking
Length of trip: 5 km
Route: Imremajor – Pálmajor – Imremajor
Difficulty level: Easy

Park your car at the “green gate” of Nagyberek, Imremajor. If you have chosen Thursday or Sunday for your trip you might top your hiking with culinary adventures. These are the days when the Two Cocks Gastro and Craft Market is organised in Majorka, where it is possible to buy the most precious products of local farmers. After tasting fatty bread, let’s set off towards south. Right at the first opportunity turn to west, following the railways. The railway turns once more towards south, and arrives in Pálmajor. Here let’s take the hiking trail, which leads us back to Majorka through the romantic landscape.   

For leisurely cycling cyclists

Type of trip: Cycling, eBike tour
Length of trip: 34 km
Route: Balatonfenyves – Imremajor – Somogyszentpál – Kéthely- Balatonújlak – Balatonkeresztúr – Balatonmáriafürdő – Balatonfenyves
Difficulty level: Easy

The only 34 km long, almost completely flat trip can be completed even with children. Let’s set off from Balatonfenyves train station, and go towards south. After a long straight way you arrive in Majorka. The few kilometres of cycling probably has not tired you too much, but as part of the warming-up let’s have a peek in the Two Cocks Gastro and Craft Market (reasons above!). Let’s follow the tourist path to Somogyszentpál, and then let’s turn to west. Cycling next to the Hunyadi Castle soon you arrive on road 68, where we should turn to north. Through Kéthely you arrive in Balatonújlak, next in Balatonkeresztúr. You arrive back to the start passing by Balatonmáriafürdő, cycling on the shore of the Hungarian Sea.

Long hiking supplemented by train, completed with bathing

Type of trip: Hiking, Nordic walking
Length of trip: 27 km
Route: Csisztapuszta – Somogyszentpál – Csömend – Nikla – Táska – Buzsák – Csisztapuszta
Difficulty level: Strenuous 

Let’s park at the entrance of Csiszta Thermal Bath and try to memorise the place. The thought of the bath will come in handy when you are at your limits. Let’s get on the narrow-gauge railway, and go to Somogyszentpál. Let’s go south next to the church ruin of Vajaskér, all the way to Csömend. At the mayor's office (Polgármesteri Hivatal in Hungarian) turn to east, and go left towards Nikla. Now, you are about halfway, so let’s get some rest. Let’s sit under the chestnut tree planted by Hungarian poet Dániel Berzsenyi in the garden of Dániel Berzsenyi Memorial Museum. Once you are rested, let’s continue your trip on the left of Büdöskúti vineyard towards north to Táska. Let’s follow the road to east, which leads you to Buzsák. If you still have some energy, visit the wine cellars on János hill. Buzsák’s most famous place has 60 thatched cellars of proud farmers and fine wines (worth trying!). Only a few more kilometres and you can have your well-deserved bath in Csiszta Thermal Bath after the hard day.