A guide to mulled wine: history, sites and a recipe

Italians still know how to live well, already from the ancient times. At least from a culinary point of view. According to experts, the ancient Romans were the first to use spices – oranges, ginger and some coriander – to bring out the aromas in wine. Interestingly, this drink was also enjoyed cold, so it is worth a reminder: when summer finally arrives again, it is worth trying out the evening with a glass of spiced wine chilled to ice-cold instead of a spritzer.

The version of mulled wine that we know today had to wait until around the 1500’s, when Europe was introduced to cinnamon and cloves, now essential ingredients in our cold weather-compatible soul-warming drink.

Mulled wine. The name might lead you to believe that it should be boiled up to the appearance of bubbles, but this is not the case: to really bring out the flavours – and to preserve the alcohol content of the wine – the spiced wine should only be heated to 70-80 degrees.

There are relatively few places where mulled wine is a fixed part of the winter menu, but Zsigmond Terrace & Cellar on the shores of the Old Lake (Öreg-tó) in Tata happens to be one of them. It is probably a complete coincidence, of course, that the star of their menu is Neapolitan pizza, which happens to be a favourite dish in Italy, the home of mulled wine.

So, if you need extra motivation for the cold weather around the lake of Tata, the promise of mulled wine at the end (or beginning?) of the hike might make you want to put on your hiking shoes.

If mulled wine were a living creature and David Attenborough were to make a film about it, he would probably grab a camera at a Christmas fair. He would wander through the stalls with a wary eye, and when he came to the right one, he would just say in his distinctive voice: “Here it is, the mulled wine! The adults are still hiding in the bottom of the bowl. They look quite black, but as soon as they are decanted into the glass jar, they dazzle their surroundings with a beautiful crimson colour.”

And indeed, Christmas and Advent fairs are never short of mulled wine. You can smell its spicy scent already from a distance, and when you see the steam rising, it’s easy to be seduced. Christmas fairs are usually held in the larger Hungarian cities, but there are also various winter gastronomic events where you can hunt for mulled wine and buy mulled wine alongside many other winter delicacies (sausages, cabbage dishes, chimney cakes). And which one is the best? You have to taste the whole range to find it out!

Unadulterated mulled wine is made from red wine, and the good news for the family’s petty cash is that you don’t necessarily have to buy the highest quality.

Simply pour the wine into a large pot or saucepan, add a few cinnamon sticks and cloves, and start heating over a low heat, taking care not to let it boil. Meanwhile, slice some lemons and oranges into rings; or, for the more experimental, add apples. Although the fruit is quite sweet, you can sweeten the mulled wine with sugar or honey to taste. Cook for about 15-20 minutes and you are done!

If you want to boost the atmosphere, add a few fresh orange slices to the mug when serving, or even use a cinnamon stick to stir. And since mulled wine tastes the best when you drink it with your friends, let’s invite them over for a little winter toast and chat!