Brunch with passion, or the house of the master tailor in Biatorbágy, with the doors wide open

Kriszta’s stories are adventurous: she set out to buy a beautiful old wardrobe, but the building was also for sale. The former house of a master tailor in Biatorbágy, in the middle of a promising garden, with huge windows – because you need light for precise stitches. The decision was quickly made: it was not just the wardrobe that would change hands! The plan soon became clear in Kriszta’s mind: she saw in the little villa a suitable place to combine art with culture, gastronomy with community building – and all this in a way that consciously puts the locals in the position. Biatorbágy is the gateway to the Zsámbék basin, full of special sights, creative people and local products. So the idea of a café was joined by the idea of a delicatessen gift shop, which offers beautiful and delicious local products. Over the years, the café has become bistro-style, serving one of the most exciting breakfasts in the area. Almost imperceptibly, it has become a community space, where producers and consumers, locals and those from further afield, are equally prominent, and where past and present are washed together in smooth, even waves. Because the wardrobe has been joined by the rest of the old furniture in the building, complemented by vintage elements hunted in antique shops, but there are also modern solutions in the tastefully and uniquely designed interior.

At first glance, the menu of Kisvilla may seem appealing: everything is tailored to the needs and preferences of the guest, just like the clothes that were made to measure in the house in those days. No two solutions are the same, no two processes are standardised, and the number of possible variations is long, even for a dish as simple as a hot sandwich or scrambled eggs. “As the guest wishes” is the motto. From two or four eggs? Baked in softer or harder version? With or without onions? And we could go on... A slow food place, literally. The majority of the ingredients comes from local producers, and the caterers and guests alike take the time to try everything. Sometimes you have to wait your turn, because Kisvilla is a place for a casual meal, where people come not for the calorie intake, but for the atmosphere, the company, the garden and the interior. Everyone stays as long as they like (and they usually do).

The list of producers and suppliers is also interesting: the ham master of the area, László Árpás, is a good old friend. The artisanal pastry shop Asztalka is also very popular: the owner is from Biatorbágy, and one Sunday afternoon, he came by with his cakes and offered them for tasting. Not only did they taste it, they immediately agreed that from that time on, he would also bake the delicacies for Kisvilla. The same was true of cheese and dairy products and the products of local sourdough bakers. The kitchen is barely bigger than what you are used to in an average family home, yet it can accommodate everything. The staff is versatile, almost everyone does everything, sometimes you can see Krista behind the counter or even washing dishes.

It’s as if the boundaries between the guest and the host were blurred, and the atmosphere is very familiar. They are familiar with the suppliers, the local artists – whose works are available for purchase in Kisvilla – and the guests are increasingly returning. Kriszta has not encountered the post-COVID symptoms of hospitality: emigration and labour shortages. She has a stable team working together. They place a strong emphasis on sustainability, seasonality, recycling and are keen to give people living in the Zsámbék Basin a chance to showcase their products. Kriszta specifically wanted to create value and community – and within the shady trees and cosy walls of Kisvilla, this was born.

Among the master tailor’s descendants, an elderly lady living in Japan is one of the most enthusiast fans of Kisvilla. She understands exactly how important it was for the owner to faithfully preserve and pass on the original atmosphere and values, and she is very pleased with what has happened to the building and the place. She regularly writes and takes an interest, following the happenings of Kisvilla – which is always interesting enough. A new exhibition, a writer-reader meeting, a family event, wedding decorations, repainted antique furniture, blooming flowers, an all-inclusive offer, an expanding selection of cakes. Here they provide the background and space (and delicious snacks) for the most intimate moments of family and friends. If the Swabian master tailor were to return and enter his former home, he would probably sip his excellent coffee with satisfaction: the heirs have done a good job of preserving the original spirit of the place.