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Where tradition is vintage chic: discover Hollókő and its surroundings!

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Szabó Sára

A real superstar is the little village of Hollókő, where centuries-old houses, cobbled streets and bustling life come together in near-perfect harmony. The miraculous place hiding in the Cserhát has only 380 inhabitants, yet it is real, honest, genuine – or as the locals say, not “as if”, but “it is”!
A real superstar is the little village of Hollókő, where centuries-old houses, cobbled streets and bustling life come together in near-perfect harmony. The miraculous place hiding in the Cserhát has only 380 inhabitants, yet it is real, honest, genuine – or as the locals say, not “as if”, but “it is”!

Traditions, cobblestones, farmhouses, a castle and a World Heritage village: that’s all most people can say about Hollókő, even those who have never been there.  But it is safe to say that this municipality is much more than just a few words. Hollókő is a village where 380 inhabitants is more a large family than a simple figure. Buildings that carry stories, and the narrators are the locals, who are active participants in the story. Programmes that will amaze you, not only in Hollókő, but also in the surrounding area. It is worth getting lost here and really following your heart instead of the map. The old part of the village is a succession of whitewashed porch houses, gift shops, crafts, churches and museums.

Great snacks and vintage chic

You will be led by your nose to the Kalácsos Bakery, a tiny house in the old village that oozes delicious aromas. The mini-bakery offers a modest but high-quality selection of additive-free, artisan pastries, fine bakery goods, breads and cakes.

“We warmly recommend the Palóc bread baked on cabbage soup, artisan buns and home-made salty scones. In keeping with the name of the bakery, you will always find fresh plaited cakes, as well. Children are also in our thoughts, therefore we await them with pretzels with salt and cheese and mini cocoa snails."

Also appealing to the taste buds is the cheese shop called Gazduram Sajtboltja, where the delicacies are made from the milk of goats and cows grazing on the excellent grassy hills of Cserhát. Spicy, plain, smoked or matured, on the spot, or even as a souvenir, gazduram’s (lit. ‘my master’s) products are perfect for consumption. You can also learn how to make cheese by prior appointment.

The confusion of abundance can be our biggest problem when it comes to choosing which craft workshop to visit first. We can start in Tünde Kiss’s husk and wicker weaving cottage in Béke Street, where special products are made from natural materials. Tünde also weaves decorative objects, ornaments, jewellery, accessories and baskets from husk, wicker, sedge, lavender and dried flowers. And if you would like to get a taste of this noble folk craft, Tünde will also hold a workshop for us by appointment. Speaking of folk crafts, you can learn crochet, embroidery and weaving at the Szatyingos House, but you can also buy wonderful textile utensils, unique bags and rugs as souvenirs. Finally, we can also find out what ‘szatying’ is!

There are also many museums, exhibitions and activities for families. In the Hollókő Castle Museum, you can take part in a medieval “history lesson” led by one of St. Ladislaus’s knights, or participate in a role-playing game in the Escape Room:

The players are the knights of King Charles I, sent by the king to the castle of Hollókő to secretly convince the lord of the castle, Mikus, of his disloyalty and loyalty to Máté Csák!

21st-century relaxation in the capital of tradition

If you’re planning to spend a whole weekend here, it is worth staying in one of the Kégli Apartment Houses. The buildings represent the old traditions of Palóc architecture, with a 21st-century feel to the interiors. The 67 protected, fairytale houses of the old village have been listed by UNESCO since 1987, and it was the first in Hungary to be included on the list of the world’s most valuable heritage sites. The old farmhouses around the little church with the tower, including also the Kégli Apartments, have preserved the ancient village image. It is the surviving village image that gives Hollókő its world-famous value. The two completely separate apartment houses include a relaxation garden and a bath house with an infrared sauna, jacuzzi and a salt corner. A plus point is that breakfast is included in the reservation, which is made from the owner’s own baked goods. If you wish, you can also enjoy a rustic dinner, grill or barbecue in the garden. The National Blue Trail passes in front of the Kégli Apartments, but there are also several other hiking trails that can be joined here. For cycling enthusiasts, bicycles are provided in the apartments!

Let’s explore the neighbourhood!

If you would like to explore the area on foot, you can follow the Kertek-alja nature trail. The six-stop trail leads through the Hollókői stream valley under gardens, along wooden paths and stairs. At the stations, you can also learn about folk crafts, such as hemp cultivation and processing, as well as about plants grown in gardens and old methods of washing!

If we were to venture a little further afield, between Hollókő and Felsőtold, we can view the countryside below us from an unrivalled vantage point. On the hillside, there is a special lookout in the shape of a hand, which has been named the Palm of God (Isten tenyere). The sturdy, wooden structure was created by woodcarving artist Benjámin Csíkszentmihályi at the request of a local association, who had regularly visited the mountainside to meditate. Sitting in the hand, it’s as if you see the world in a completely different way. You can even combine a visit to the Hand Lookout with a hike, as the National Blue Trail also passes by here.