Retro at its best – a loveable time travel at Lake Velence

When Lake Velence in the 1950s, or rather in the 1960s-70s became a popular destination of domestic mass tourism, plots were parcelled in the area. If someone wants to see in three dimensions what the expression “patch of land” means, the opportunity is given: both here, “up” from road 7 and the railway, and down, at the shore about 200 square feet small gardens with tiny cottages are located. Wandering between them we might find real gems. Our absolute favourite is close to Velencefürdő railway station, on the side of the main road, no. 9 Ady street. Coloured metal fence decorated with fish, oars and sailboats, tiny house with a mosaic of Snow White and the seven dwarfs: perfect just the way it is.

At Lake Velence the best way to get around is a bicycle: between the basically merged settlements of the northern shore (Velence, Velencefürdő, Gárdony and Agárd) it’s possible to ride along a cycling path, but we don’t have to be afraid of high traffic either if we choose smaller streets, coastal routes. You can rent a bike in Gárdony, at ‘Tekerbringa’, and ‘Gesztenye’ (Chestnut) in Agárd is also a really great place (for example, if you get a flat tyre or the bicycle breaks down you just call them, and they are on their way!). Once we mounted our bike, we may ride from one retro attraction to the other. For example, in Velence there is the former ‘Ifi szálló’ (Youth Hostel), which is currently a half-ruined building densely decorated with graffiti, however, in the past it was a popular meeting place of socialist youth. Only a few things remind us of its old glory, but the advertisement on one of the walls advertising the Soviet Union magazine to this day will surely make all retro lovers’ hearts beat.  Once we are here, it’s worth stopping by the other side of the shopping centre called Velence Korzó, at the ‘Gösser Büfé és Ételbár’(Gösser Buffet and Food Bar), which is a fish fry open all year round, but guests also talk about its langos (fried dough) in superlatives.

From Velence we can head toward the aforementioned Velencefürdő, where we can take a dip at Tóparty beach (besides, the Lake’s beaches are quite pleasant, there are plenty of free beaches, it’s worth trying all of them in order to choose our favourite one). Tóparty beach is also dominated by ‘Mi kedvencünk’ (Our Favourite) from the gastronomical point of view (they offer their delicacies in multiple locations), which is not a problem, since they really cook well. And ‘Hablegény’ (Merman) is their worthy competitor. In both places the usual “retro offer” is available, but they also try more modern dishes. If after the dip you decide to continue your trip and bite something on the way ‘Ficak büfé’ (Ficak Buffet) can be a great choice. The buffet has a retro look – not in a pejorative sense, retro here is rather a synonym for “immensely cosy” –, however, its offer is nothing like retro. Guests may enjoy here ćevapi, delicious burgers, and often live music as well. The buffet even offers half or full board accommodation.

Moving to the west the next town is Agárd, venue of the former Pop Beach and numerous popular music events and camps in the summer. Today only a few things remind of all this except for the one or two signs and forgotten posters. However, the settlement is still a nice place for tourists. A secret hot tip is the strudel shop at the railway station – no one should be discouraged by the long queue. It’s no accident there’s a queue (everything is delicious), and it moves pretty fast, too.

There is something truly traditional about Lake Velence. The settings might be a little shabby, yet, many times, hide real gems. And finally, a tip that can be a worthy conclusion of a day spent here: Cycling towards Pákozd “Kanyar büfé” (Bend Buffet) awaits us. A small bungalow with reeds and garden covered with gravel. Hamburgers, homemade dishes. If we close our eyes, we might hear the melodies filtering through the wings of a soft breeze from the direction of Agárd Pop Beach. Is it R-Go or Neoton?