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Black, purple, yellow, red, but most of all sweet: this is the real tomato

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Szabó Sára

Ildikó Csendes grows over 830 varieties of tomatoes on her farm in Husztót, and none of them is perfectly round and red. Ildikó is trying to break down decades-old habits: with her events, products, and seed exchange, she is trying to build a culture around this vegetable. We visited and tasted in the “Paradicsomkert” (Paradise Garden).
Ildikó Csendes grows over 830 varieties of tomatoes on her farm in Husztót, and none of them is perfectly round and red. Ildikó is trying to break down decades-old habits: with her events, products, and seed exchange, she is trying to build a culture around this vegetable. We visited and tasted in the “Paradicsomkert” (Paradise Garden).

In Baranya County, not far from Pécs, you will find the magical village of Husztót. For now, the surrounding villages are stealing the limelight, but thanks to the work of Ildikó Csendes, it is becoming increasingly popular. Here is an estate that breaks taboos on the tomato front. This is the “Paradicsomkert” (Paradise Garden), a melting pot of the world's most diverse national heirlooms. The 2,600 plants grown here supply the surrounding restaurants and gourmet chefs, but Ildiko has much bigger plans than sales: awareness-raising, community building and promoting rural self-sufficient living.

 

The housekeeper from Husztót has come a long way to tomatoes. She worked in the fashion and beauty industry for about 25 years, but after being diagnosed with diabetes, she got out of the business. He rejected the rigorous medical treatments right away, vowing to produce what she consumed. She and her partner moved to the countryside, where her hobby gardening ambitions could finally be fulfilled. Over the years, he has planted more and more and diverse varieties of vegetables (not just tomatoes) on her estate and now boasts a quite amazing "collection”. Instead of keeping the past where it belongs, we asked Ildiko about the future, mission, and plans.

"On Saturdays I sell at the Búza Square farmers' market in Pécs. I've had people tell me how ugly my tomatoes are," she laughs.

"This also shows that a paradigm shift is needed." We have used to seeing defect-free, but tasteless vegetables on the shelves of supermarkets thanks to chemical treatments. But those who have experienced the "pure" fruits of the “Paradicsomkert” (Paradise Garden) know that there is no colour, shape or flavour that is not present in the world of tomatoes. Most people, however, are open-minded and are amazed when they realise what a taste experience a tomato can create." – Ildiko continues. In Husztó there are green, purple, black, sweet, and acidic, reminiscent of grape bunches or human brains, but there are also some Named after Lajos XVII., because it resembled his most precious body part.

Where did this collection come from?

Thanks to the international seed exchange movement, Ildiko has been able to exchange seeds with farmers all over the world. Norway, Madagascar, Argentina, New Zealand, Brazil, Russia, Africa: just a few of the regions from which the rare and special varieties of the Paradicsomkert (Paradise Garden) originate. The vegetables on the estate are therefore not hybrids, but heirlooms specific to a particular region. Anyone can admire it, as the garden is open to the public from the end of April. Ildikó will also be happy to share her horticultural and tomato growing techniques with the interested public, and following the international trend, she would also like to introduce domestic seed exchange in Hungary. "Don't be afraid," says the farmer from Husztót, "tomatoes are an extremely easy crop to grow, and if we can finally break out of the perfectionist mindset, we can have a fantastic gastronomic experience."

Let’s go to the Husztót Tomato Festival!

The Husztót Tomato Festival is the best place for seed exchange, tasting, orientation and broadening your view. At the event at the end of August, local gourmets put their tomato sauce in everything (but really everything). You can taste tomato bruschetta, cakes, cheese and even cocktails, learn about the different heirloom varieties and get the most special seeds for home-growing.