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One of the best goat cheeses in the country, from the heart of the Őrség

  • Novitatis
Would you like to try some of the best goat cheeses in the country? You do not have to book a table in Michelin-starred restaurants in Budapest (although you can find them there too) to do so, just visit Magyarszombatfa in the Őrség and book an afternoon snack at the “Őrségi Ínyes Manufaktúra” (Őrség Delicious Manufactory).
Would you like to try some of the best goat cheeses in the country? You do not have to book a table in Michelin-starred restaurants in Budapest (although you can find them there too) to do so, just visit Magyarszombatfa in the Őrség and book an afternoon snack at the “Őrségi Ínyes Manufaktúra” (Őrség Delicious Manufactory).

Many people know this region of the Őrség mainly for its pottery, but more and more people getting to know it for its gastronomy, thanks to Attila Sándor Búzás, among others. Now in his eighties, the master has been making goat's cheese in Magyarszombatfa for decades and has no intention of stopping his work. Although for him, cheese-making was never really a job, but rather a true vocation. He learned his trade in France: his cheeses are the result of long experimentation to achieve their desired flavour, which is much more intense than the classic cheeses many people know. He uses unique manufacturing techniques: Attila does not use bacterial cultures in the production of his cheeses, although this would be the norm in the industry. His method can be called natural cheese making after natural winemaking, as it uses the natural properties of milk in the production process. In perfecting cheeses, he uses them not only on their own, but also as a base for potential recipes and as a complement to dishes: he is constantly creating new recipes, of which goat cheeses are, of course, the stars. Not just a cheesemaker, but a true gourmet.

But why exactly goat cheese?

Many people think of goats as simple animals, but Attila says there is no more demanding animal than the goat, which can easily adapt to the environment but grazes selectively. The really good quality goat's milk comes from grazing animals.  His cheeses are hand-moulded, like French farmer goat cheeses, and each one is unique. There may be minor differences in weight and shape, but this only adds to the uniqueness: cheeses of the same ripening but different shapes and sizes offer a different world of flavours, because the ripening of the cheese is influenced by the amount of cheese paste.

Cheese culture

Cheese culture is still developing in Hungary: at the “Őrségi Ínyes Manufaktúra” (Őrség Delicious Manufactory), they want to educate those interested in gastronomy, not just offer some samples for them. They show you which cheeses and wines to pair up. The flavours and aromas of their slowly-ripened cheeses linger in the mouth for a long time, and with well-matched wines they are a truly unique gastronomic experience. You are also provided with a few tricks on how to assemble your cheese platters, for example, that you should only put a maximum of two types of goat cheese on a well-organised platter. When selecting these, it is advisable to choose one spicy and one aged goat's cheese: never two spicy or two aged at the same time. In terms of order, the truly professional cheeses are stacked “cheese by their age”, i.e. in the order of ripeness: from the less mature to the more mature cheeses.

Tour around the estate

In the cheese range of the “Őrségi Ínyes Manufaktúra” (Őrség Delicious Manufactory), Chevrette is a piquant speciality, matured with blue cheese, while “Csemege borsos” is a goat cheese matured with brevibacterium and flavoured with dark pepper. Both are worth a visit to the manufactory, where everyone is warmly welcomed for a snack or dinner. The workshop can be recognised from afar by the black puli (Hungarian sheepdog) standing guard outside the door, who also accompanies his owner on the supply runs to Budapest By prior arrangement, up to 15 people are welcome to taste the cheese specialities, a selection of nearly 20 locally-produced products accompanied by smoked mangalitsa sausage and ham. For those looking for a heartier meal, you can even go for the kid steak. In addition to goats cheese, you can also taste many other traditional products, such as cheeses made from the milk of Hungarian cows, or even apple cheese. Attila's cheeses also appear in Budapest's Michelin-starred restaurants, but they have also been used by the Hungarian team in the Bocuse d'Or international cooking competition. For cheese lovers, the “Őrségi Ínyes Manufaktúra” (Őrség Delicious Manufactory) is a must-see destination, but wine lovers will surely find a favourite cheese to take home for their next wine tasting.