“Kapolcsing” in winter and summer in one of the most beautiful valleys of the Balaton Highlands

“Republican presidents and prime ministers, Kossuth Prize-winning musicians, actors, writers, poets, directors and folk artists, retired women’s theatre and Senegalese tribal dancers have visited the Valley over the years’ – reads the archive of the Kapolcs Cultural and Nature Conservation Association. And how true: in this place, there is something intangible that brings with it the desire to create. Just take a peek inside the village mill and dairy house called Falumalom és Molnárház in Kapolcs, where you can learn about the former world of the millers, but also about the crafts and handicraft traditions of the region. One of the town’s protected symbols, the building complex offers exhibitions and lectures to visitors. Not far away is a blacksmith’s forge owned by Csaba Tóth, which is both a house and a museum. The 18th-century forge offers a glimpse into the life of the master craftsman and, by appointment, you can see how a blacksmith lived and worked 200 years ago.

Another four-seasonal venue in Kapolcs is the MűvészVölgy Kúria (‘ArtValley Hall’), which hosts a variety of art programmes and concerts throughout the year. Interestingly, in the year 2024, a permanent exhibition of the contemporary collection of the OXO group and private collector Béla Horváth opened on the floor of the Hall, and during the festival called Művészetek Völgye (‘Valley of Arts’), the space will also be used for discussions. The cultural centre also includes the Kuthy Café and Bistro, where you can enjoy coffee and a meal in a wonderful setting all year round.

Hello Hungary’s tip: The BalatonBike365 Port is also located in the MűvészVölgy Kúria, thanks to which you can not only cycle during the Valley of Arts, but also rent different types of bikes all year round and even take part in themed tours.

If Kapolcs is your destination, then Barbara Cziráki’s French-style boutique hotel, the Hazai Provence, is an almost unmissable stop. It’s a real success story, which started 9 years ago with just a small farmhouse and has since grown to include 10 wonderful Provençal-style rooms, a mansion-like building and a wellness section. It’s hard to believe that this fairytale building is actually a 180-year-old farmhouse and the second life of the farmhouse that Barbara has given it. And it’s not just the accommodation that’s unique – the Michelin-recommended 84 Bistro is here, too! The menu offers dishes made from the ingredients of local producers, while the drinks menu offers the finest dishes of the Lake Balaton region, French wines and sparkling wines! The reimagined, gourmet cuisine is currently available mainly to hotel guests, but the French flair will soon be available to all. 

There is a place on the outskirts of Kapolcs, at the foot of Bondoró Hill, where the ground seems to have opened up beneath your feet, a dark hole in the shade of the trees. The cave, known as Pokol-lik (lit. ‘Hell Hole’), is the subject of countless anecdotes and urban legends: during the Turkish occupation, for example, the entire population of Kapolcs took refuge here. The entrance to the 57-metre-long basalt cave is wide, and you can even imagine a larger apartment inside. But don’t stay overnight, who knows what nocturnal animal you might have to share your bivouac with.

From here, follow the green T sign, then switch to the yellow lane in Kapolcs and hike to Királykő, a section that is easy to walk even with small children and babies. The reward for the walk of just 3 kilometres (6 km round trip) is a breathtaking panorama of the village below and the wonderful landscapes of the region. After the sightseeing, head back along the same route – following the yellow lane and the green T sign.

Last but not least, one of the country’s oldest and most artistic festivals, the Valley of Arts, has been around for decades. As the Hungarian festival-loving audience has become accustomed to, every year we can participate in great performances and cultural programmes in the friendly harmony of nature and art in Kapolcs – in 2024, from 19 to 28 July. It would be difficult to list all the things that the Valley of Arts, a seasoned veteran of the festival scene, brings to the table: jazz, folk music, light music, yoga, bike tours, readings, literary evenings, roundtable discussions, improvisation workshops, exhibitions, workshops and film screenings – to name but a few. So, with the end of summer approaching, let’s dive into the hustle and bustle of Kapolcs!