Three hundred thousand steps for the soul: go on a pilgrimage around Lake Balaton!

Presumably no one needs to be introduced to the Balaton Cross Swimming, which has now been held more than 41 times; but you can also paddle across, run around or even skate across the Hungarian sea. But perhaps the most profound of all is the true pilgrimage experience of walking around – or the Balaton Camino. The pilgrimage to Lake Balaton, compared to the Spanish Way of St. James, or El Camino, is a real “close-to-life” experience, immersing you in the region’s magical off-season gastronomic, spiritual and cultural experiences. Although Hungary boasts a National Blue Trail and many hiking trails that are admired from far and wide, the walk around Lake Balaton is a truly unique route. And why? Almost all of us have experiences on the shores of Lake Balaton that are so vivid and deeply rooted in our memories that we can almost feel the moment. The smell of fried dough scones, the squeak of a camping bike or the sound of children at the lake. And the Balaton Camino seems to lead you through these moments, taking you to new and unknown landscapes.

Although the Balaton Camino was first organised in 2017 as a community walk by three friends; Dóra Budavári, Judit Rákász-Losonczy and Anna Scherer, the ten-day spring pilgrimage did not become a long-lived tradition. But the good example should be set for everyone (they say), because whether it is autumn, winter or spring, Lake Balaton shows its fascinating face to everyone. What’s more, since the start of 2017, there has been a spreading of four-season restaurants and attractions on the lake shore, making it well worth a visit. Wherever we start from, let the itinerary of the three “founding” friends be an example to us, as it shares distances between cities in a way that is just comfortable and ideal for our tired feet. On this basis, the following stops are proposed over the ten days and two hundred kilometres (all along the cycle route):

Balatonboglár–Balatonszárszó 16 km

Balatonszárszó–Siófok 21 km

Siófok–Balatonakarattya 17 km

Balatonakarattya–Alsóörs 24 km

Alsóörs–Tihany 15 km

Tihany–Balatonszepezd 22 km

Balatonszepezd–Szigliget 23 km

Szigliget–Keszthely 20 km

Keszthely–Balatonfenyves 26 km

Balatonfenyves–Balatonboglár 18 km

The start in Balatonboglár is based on personal experiences, but any town can be our starting point. If you do start your journey here, don’t miss the Pavilon, open most months, where the owners, Róbert and Dorisz, treat you to fantastic Italian cuisine even in the colder months. Our next stop is Balatonszárszó, which, although a bit monotonous (others say meditative), the Kistücsök Restaurant FOOD&ROOM in Balatonszemes, which is on the way, can turn your day into a truly unique experience. Balázs Csapody and his team offer guests a modern, bourgeois atmosphere all year round – now with a show kitchen, deli, chef’s room and accommodation, in case our legs can’t carry us to Balatonszárszó.

Although the bike path doesn’t lead this way, it’s worth a detour to refuel for the rest of the day at the Kovászvirág Bakery in Siófok, where you can get sandwiches that will fill your belly for the day. After the Siófok section, Lake Balaton makes up for it as far as Balatonakarattya: as you turn north, the Hungarian sea becomes more and more appealing: tiny houses with a patchwork of beaches, often empty but still exciting-looking holiday homes from the last century. Before we set off for our destination for the day, let’s stop at the romantic Provençal-style restaurant in Balatonaliga, next to the cycle path. If our legs won’t take us any further, we can stay at the Lavender Terrace Restaurant and Accommodation to enjoy the breakfast menu the next day!

The gastronomic delights are also available in Balatonakarattya, but when you are passing by, you are really left scratching your head, so beautiful is every corner. Anita Árvai’s “free Mecca”, the Veganeeta Home in Balatonalmádi is an excellent choice for meat-free meals.

It’s not enough to write a few lines about Tihany, it has so much to offer. However, it’s important to note that the cycle path does not lead into the peninsula, so it is worth considering spending an extra day in this wonderful city. When arriving at Balatonszepezd, it is worth stopping at Botond Schindele’s year-round restaurant, Konyha-Kert (‘Kitchen and Garden’) Bistro and Bar. From here, it’s almost just a breath away to Szigliget, where you pass by the small shop called Kisbolt Szigliget Delicate, so if you are hungry, take a break. Although the footpath encircles the mountain of Szigliget, it is worth climbing it, as Villa Kabala is right on the peak. Once on the terrace, you are immediately rewarded with a welcoming glass of elderflower champagne and a magnificent view of the bay of Szigliget. And after an unrivalled dinner menu, you can fall asleep in one of the six rooms for rent.

At the end of the Balaton Camino, we only have two stops left: Keszthely and Balatonfenyves. In the Keszthely “bend”, we walk past several bistros, which are open with varying hours, so it depends on the season where to stop for a quick lunch. This is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful stretches of the lake, and if you head south, you’ll get a fantastic view of the water. Last but not least comes Balatonfenyves, where A Konyhám (‘My Kitchen’) is an unmissable culinary highlight.

This is easy to sum up: comfortable shoes and light weight. As the whole route is on a well-maintained concrete road, the Balaton Camino is easy enough for a pilgrim of average stamina (again, with little weight, as a heavy hiking bag can be a killer). The road takes you through forests, through beautiful bays, along the shore and past reed beds, always showing a different side of the lake. Although it’s no small challenge to get up every morning and hit the road, with the right equipment (medicines, layers of clothing) almost anyone can set off on a great adventure. Depending on the time of year, it’s a good idea to be prepared with sunscreen, headgear, mosquito repellent and sports creams, and don’t forget to bring some painkillers, too.

All in all, walking around Lake Balaton is a very special experience, whether you do it in one piece or in sections.