From the “red planet” to the Roman trenches: the colourful Vértes

If one wishes to leave the Earth for a while, there’s no need to hop in a space ship. It’s enough to get into the car and head to Gánt, nestled among the hills of Vértes, just an hours drive from Budapest. This village of 860 inhabitants was one of the most significant bauxite resources in Europe and in the world during the Second World War. Industrial extraction has been ongoing in Gánt for thirty years, yet the quarry was finally closed in 1962. In contrast to several quarries that would have deserved a better fate, the geological formation of Gánt was very lucky, the area was recultivated and can now be visited as open-air mining and geological museum. The hills covered by red bauxite could even serve as scenes for a movie set on Mars! In addition, karstic limestone rocks can be spotted along the otherwise surreally red soil. One of the most charming accommodations of the area, the ‘Kun Pista Vendégház’ (Pista Kun Guesthouse) has worked its way into our hearts several years ago. There was no question that we would stay here, as it’s ideal for both smaller and greater companies, and we can even play tabletop games in its large community space. In three days, we went on two challenging hiking tours in this special area, but that doesn’t mean we didn’t indulge in delights with full stomachs, letting the hosts in the region pamper us.

Leaving Gánt, we can walk through an unearthly mini desert on a pleasantly exhausting trip of 12.5 km. After parking at the ‘Vértes Vendéglő’ (Vértes Restaurant), one can follow the yellow cross sign and then the yellow line towards Csákvár. The route passes by the abandoned bauxite mines of Újfeltárás and Meleges. Once the route merges with the green line, follow the sign to head back to Gánt on the trail marked by the green triangle. The trip ends at the Gém (Heron) Hill and if the timing is right, one can enjoy a marvellous sunset. When it comes to local, make sure to leave the forest before dark. It’s worth finishing the trip at the ‘Vértes Vendéglő’ (Vértes Restaurant), which is also a stamping site of the Countrywide Blue Tour. The restaurant’s “homemade taster” is delicious and helps restore your energies for next day’s challenges.

It’s important to start the second day well-rested, as the real challenge is just to begin! The tenth section of the Countrywide Blue Tour twists and turns here, leading hikers through amazing landscapes. We set out from the ‘Vértes Vendéglő’ (Vértes Restaurant) again, but this time we heads towards the northwest, through the lands behind the village, following the blue line marking. Keep an eye out to catch a glimpse of the ruins if Csáki Castle between Mindszentpuszta and Kőhányáspuszta. Although there is no road leading to the ruins, but from the trail winding along the valley it’s easy to notice the once-proud building. On the hillside, under a rocky shelf lies the entrance to the Oroszlánkő cave (or Lion Rock cave, a great place to take photos!), which is a 20 metre-long straight cave leading into the bowels of the earth. Kőhányáspuszta, our first rest area, is just a few kilometres away. The ‘Gróf Esterházy Móric Ökoturisztikai Központ’ (Count Móric Esterházy Ecotourism Centre) offers refreshment for the body and the soul. Try the daily offers inspired by the traditions and cuisine of the local Swabian community, always updated with seasonally available ingredients. Once you’re full of energy, it’s team to continue your trip. After getting the stamp, simply turn around and continue the forest walk following the yellow line. This road takes you back to Murvabánya where the hiking trail joins the blue line again – for the last two kilometres where we started the hike. It’s a lovely way to end the day and the trip as one heads out of the forest and walks through the meadow, slowly returning to reality. The rest is well-deserved as you end your trip in Gánt, after the 23 kilometre-long hiking tour.