Zoltán Benkő and the “morzsa” (Crumb)

It is not a special case that someone who has become a key actor in Hungarian gastronomy comes from another profession. Zoltán Benkő did not study to be a chef either. He studied economics and law during his university years, and his first defining culinary experience was in Brussels. He was captivated by gastronomy, which would not let him go. Then he opened the “Lac!Konyha” (Laci Kitchen), the “Mák Bistro” (Poppy Bistro), the Innio, and then the burn out – as this is a profession where you have to be present all the time. You cannot have a rest. Even when you are on holiday, you explore the markets and observe the world trends. After having closed the “Innio”, Zoltán retired and moved to Pécs with his wife, Lili. A year's break turned into three years, during which time he focused on his family and decided to stop catering. But tried as he might, he had to realise that there was simply no other way. From that point, he consciously planned his life in slow mode, with Chef Attila Kurucz on his right.

“I did not have anything to do with Pécs before, but I fell in love with it. We moved here due to family reasons and I find it a beautiful city. It has a plenty of potentials and creativity, but the gastronomic offer is unjustly poor. There are some nice people and promising projects, but serious reform is needed,” he believes. There is no doubt that the region is making progress, with an increasing number of primary producers and quality products. Good ingredients are also essential in the “Morzsa” (Crumb), and as the founder of the “Magyar Gasztronómiai Egyesület” (Hungarian Gastronomic Association), Zoltán relentlessly searches for the best. Mihály Zichy breeds exceptional Wagyu, the forest mushrooms in the area are phenomenal, the cows of the “Görföl Tanya” (Görföl Farm) in Kovácshida produce excellent milk, and Csaba Bálint's pigeon meat from Dunaföldvár is of outstanding quality. Though, some of their raw materials come from abroad. For example, flour, which is transported from a Danish island to the “Morzsa” (Crumb). He believes that there is nothing bourgeois about it, the flour is simply made there in such a way that it is still of exactly the same high quality eight years later. After all, crafts cannot allow differing materials.

In this respect, too, the Scandinavian line is the team's benchmark, with a long tradition in the Nordic countries of creating simple but unforgettable dishes from local ingredients. “The best experience of my life was a slice of sourdough bread with Normandy butter,” he recalls when we talk about minimalism. This is not the same as fine dining,” he points out. The modern bistro kitchen is a democratic institution, where you can wear sneakers and shorts and be part of the creative process of creating something from local ingredients. This is also the main path of the “Morzsa” (Crumb), which is mostly thanks to the master baker, Lili Tomin, who brings the calm professionalism from “Espresso Embassy” and “Nor/ma Pékség” (Nor/ma Bakery).     

Since its opening in the autumn, the “Morzsa” (Crumb) has enjoyed a steady clientele, where not only signature items such as Nordic sourdough bread and cardamom buns are best sellers, but also oysters, for example. “I would have not thought so, but they are selling like hotcakes,” says Zoltán. “Just as there are jeans in fashion to ensure the financial stability of haute couture, we are also going to diversify our business. The “Morzsa” (Crumb) represents a more popular line, but my friend Attila Kurucz and I will soon open our hit spot,” says Benkő, and he also reveals that the latter will be also located in Pécs, though, could be anywhere else, since with such a profile, the place is completely irrelevant. It would be a culinary experience either way. We are looking forward to it.