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Gastronomy

Vibrant gastronomic life in Bodrogkeresztúr

  • Ripka Gergely
The 27 settlements in the Tokaj wine region have seen varying degree, yet diverse activity in the hospitality sector over the past 30 years. The most spectacular developments have been performed perhaps in Mád regarding both wineries and hospitality. Tarcal and Erdőbénye also belong to the positive examples, with their own, more intimate atmosphere and varied events, but Tállya and Hercegkút, located even further north, are also getting active organising various programmes. Meanwhile, there is slower movement in the towns and cities located in the wine region, with many town administrations apparently not yet knowing which of the many different needs they want to meet. Among them we can find Bodrogkeresztúr, where spectacular projects have sprung up as a result of initiatives by vintners.
The 27 settlements in the Tokaj wine region have seen varying degree, yet diverse activity in the hospitality sector over the past 30 years. The most spectacular developments have been performed perhaps in Mád regarding both wineries and hospitality. Tarcal and Erdőbénye also belong to the positive examples, with their own, more intimate atmosphere and varied events, but Tállya and Hercegkút, located even further north, are also getting active organising various programmes. Meanwhile, there is slower movement in the towns and cities located in the wine region, with many town administrations apparently not yet knowing which of the many different needs they want to meet. Among them we can find Bodrogkeresztúr, where spectacular projects have sprung up as a result of initiatives by vintners.

Where Keresztúr and Kisfalud meet

Bodrogkeresztúr and Bodrogkisfalud are practically twin settlements at the northern end of Mount Tokaj, which have now been merged. Perhaps none of the towns will get offended if we present them together. Before you dive into the sights, it is worth making a short detour to the Bodrogkeresztúr viewpoint, which can be reached by car from the Tarcal junction, passing the cemetery. In every season you can enjoy breathtaking views of Zemplén, Kisfalud and Bodrogköz. When the weather is clear, you can even see Slovakia. It is worth combining your visit with an event, of which there is plethora of opportunities in these towns. Just to mention a soon-to-be-organized event, the Mindszenthavi Mulatság in October, which is a family-friendly, informal event offering diverse and very personal, yet selected open programmes on Friday and Saturday for the discerning audience at the most excellent cellars.

There is no community life without a good café. It is a pleasure to see that a charming little place, Kriszta's Café, has opened in Bodrogkeresztúr in 2019 after Tokaj, where there is always fresh pastry, ice cream in summer, smiling students behind the counter and Kriszta has a pithy story to tell about current events. They also offer a selection of bottled local wines, if you want to take a great Tokaj wine as a gift after having your pre-departure espresso.

Where to drink wine?

Wandering in a wine region it is worth mentioning some of the wineries that not only produce great wines, but also have year-round programmes; where you should book in advance even if there is no event at the weekend; and where community involvement is also an important aspect. Bott Cellar, awarded the 2021 Winemaker of the Winemakers and 2 stars by TokajGuide, has a thousand ties to both settlements. Currently, they can be found in the renovated building of the Bodrogkeresztúr Ceramics Factory, where Upland-born Judit and József Bodó present the dry and sweet wines of Hegyalja in one of the purest styles in the wine region; while also finding time to give something back to the local community, whether it is a charity auction, a carnival ball, a creative arts camp, a tree planting for kindergarten children or a nature walk. Both Sarolta Bárdos and Tokaj Nobilis have a twenty-year history of refined wine quality and commitment to Bodrogkeresztúr (their dry wines from Barakony vineyard are unrivalled in style throughout the wine region), but they also have their own accommodation for guests. Among the most important participants we have to mention Patricius near Kisfalud, Füleky, among the smaller ones Bodrog Winery, Carpinus, Attila Orsolyák, and among the newer discoveries, Szélkiáltó Winery.

The Henye and Dereszla phenomenon

In 2015, Dereszla Winery opened a new winery in Henye vineyard on the Tarcal side. It is no longer just a place for large-scale champagne production, but the winery also serves as a community space, where concerts, lecture evenings and round-table discussions take place almost every weekend in an appropriate setting. If you want to participate in a special wine tour of the vineyard, you can do so here. Opposite the Dereszla wine cellar (on the main road on the border of Keresztúr and Kisfalud), in a picturesque riverside setting, there is one of the most sophisticated restaurants in the wine region, Dereszla Bistro, opened in spring 2021, which offers a menu that is also a treat for fine dining enthusiasts. It is therefore worth leaving the main road 37 towards Bodrogkeresztúr at any time of the year. You can even put together a various long-weekend programme if you book the right venues.