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Gastronomy

An actor, a soup and a culinary tradition: the story of the Újházy chicken broth

  • Uzonyi Nóra
A huge bowl of piping hot, golden-yellow Újházy chicken soup. You don't need a more detailed description than that to make your mouth water and think that no matter how long it takes to cook, this dish will make your next Sunday lunch a royal feast. But who and what has made this particular soup so popular?
A huge bowl of piping hot, golden-yellow Újházy chicken soup. You don't need a more detailed description than that to make your mouth water and think that no matter how long it takes to cook, this dish will make your next Sunday lunch a royal feast. But who and what has made this particular soup so popular?

Who is Újházy and what does he have to do with a soup?

First of all, there is an 'i vs y' dilemma in the story, and we have to accept the fact that this can not be resolved. After all, the soup in discussion is named after and by a certain Ede Újházy (1841-1915), an actor who was comfortable not only on the planks that made up our world, but also in the field of gastronomy. However, his name is very inconsistently referred to by the internet, sometimes as Újházi, sometimes as Újházy. On the bright side: from now on, everyone can choose the spelling they prefer; we'll stick with the option that conveys noble elegance.

 

Újházy was a frequent guest in the restaurant that was the ancestor of present-day Gundel, the restaurant named after Ferenc Wampetics. And even at the dinner table, he could not be separated from his profession. Although he didn't quote Shakespeare or Molière at mealtimes, he could tell a story with the enthusiasm of an actor. Among other things, he spoke about gastronomy, too, which was particularly close to his heart.

No wonder then, that one evening, when he described what he considered to be a truly perfect soup - ripe chicken pieces, white, crumbly meat, lots of pasta and plenty of vegetables - he made a particular impression on his audience, including the chef at Wampetics, who the next day prepared the ordered soup - the prototype, if you like. Újházy, of course, immediately tasted the dish and then gave further culinary instructions to ensure that the steaming delicacy tasted exactly as he wanted it to. The recipe was improved time and time again until the "perfect" method of preparation was found, as a result of which the world's gastronomic lexicon could be extended, thanks to a new delicacy in the form of the Újházy chicken soup.

What makes this broth so special?

Anyone who has tasted it already knows that spoonfuls of it, surrounded by golden drops, are an amazing experience. And if you've ever tried to make Ede Újházy's favourite soup at home, you'll know that it's only worth trying if you have patience as well as the ingredients: this soup ought to be left on the stove for at least 3-4 hours, but ideally rather for 1-2 days. 

Although the name suggests that the list of ingredients should always include chicken, Ede Újházy says that the secret of the really special flavours is an elderly rooster. The internet is full of recipes to experiment with. Although unfortunately there's no getting away from the part where you're just standing over the pot with your mind wandering off to a different world, and start to take off the froth while letting the bubbling liquid boil, remember that in this case it's probably worth the effort. If you use really fresh ingredients, the result will not only be delicious, but healthy too.

Újházy chicken broth: the best places to look for it

Well, unfortunately, we don't have a list like that. On one hand, because it would be one hell of a task to go through the Újházy-offerings of the best restaurants in the country. On the other hand, because personal preference is an infinitely individual thing. What could make the writer of this article go to gourmet heaven, might make the reader escape from the world. But one thing is certain: among the locations on our map, there must be plenty of places where Újházy's favourite is on the menu. So get tasting!